Bad lighting in a workshop isn’t just annoying—it’s dangerous. You can’t see cut lines properly, you miss defects in your work, and you’re more likely to injure yourself with power tools.

I’ve set up lighting in probably a dozen sheds over the years, both my own and for mates. Here’s what I’ve learned about what works and what doesn’t.

LED Shop Lights Are the Default for Good Reason

Those linkable LED shop lights you see at Bunnings have basically become the standard, and they earned it. They’re bright, cheap to run, last forever, and installation is straightforward.

For a standard single garage-sized shed (roughly 3m x 6m), four 4-foot LED shop lights mounted to the ceiling gives you plenty of general lighting. That’s about $150-200 total, and they’ll draw maybe 100W combined.

Compare that to the old T8 fluorescent tubes that used to be the go-to. Similar light output would use 2-3x the power, the tubes need replacing eventually, and they take forever to warm up in cold weather.

There’s basically no good reason to install fluorescents in a new shed anymore. LEDs have won this fight.

Colour Temperature Matters More Than You’d Think

This is measured in Kelvin (K). Lower numbers are warmer/yellower, higher numbers are cooler/bluer.

For workshop lighting, you want something in the 4000-5000K range. That’s “neutral white” to “cool white.” It’s close to natural daylight and makes it easier to see detail and colour accurately.

I tried 2700K “warm white” in my first shed because it felt more comfortable. Turned out to be a mistake—everything looked dim and yellowish, and I couldn’t judge wood finishes properly.

Don’t go too far the other way either. 6000K+ “daylight” bulbs are harsh and fatiguing over long work sessions. The 4000-5000K sweet spot is there for good reason.

Lumens, Not Watts

Watts tell you power consumption. Lumens tell you actual light output. With LED efficiency varying between products, you need to check lumens.

For general workshop lighting, aim for about 50-75 lumens per square foot (roughly 500-750 lux). For a 200 square foot shed, that’s 10,000-15,000 lumens total.

Most 4-foot LED shop lights output around 3,000-4,000 lumens each. Do the math for your space and don’t just guess.

Under-lighting is the most common mistake I see. People install half of what they need, then wonder why they can’t see properly.

Task Lighting Is Essential

General overhead lighting can’t do everything. For detailed work—especially on a workbench—you need additional task lighting.

I use articulating desk lamps with LED bulbs mounted to my bench. They’re adjustable so I can direct light exactly where I need it, and they’re bright enough for close-up work.

Magnetic base work lights are also fantastic. Stick them to any metal surface, position them exactly where you need light, move them when you’re done. I’ve got three that I shuffle around depending on the job.

Budget at least $50-100 for task lighting even after you’ve done the overhead lights. It makes a massive difference.

Motion Sensors Are Convenient but Imperfect

I installed motion sensor switches in my current shed. When they work, they’re great—walk in, lights come on automatically, walk out and they turn off after a few minutes.

When they don’t work, they’re infuriating. You’re standing still doing detailed work and the lights shut off because you haven’t moved enough to trigger the sensor.

I’ve found the best approach is motion sensors for general area lights, but manual switches for task lighting. Gives you the convenience without the frustration.

Also, get sensors with adjustable timeout settings. The default is usually too short for workshop use. I’ve got mine set to 15 minutes.

Daylight Is Free But Inconsistent

If your shed has windows or skylights, use them. Natural light is excellent for colour accuracy and just feels better to work in.

But don’t rely on it exclusively. Clouds roll in, days get shorter in winter, and sometimes you’re working at night. You need adequate artificial lighting regardless.

Positioning matters—windows on the north side (in Australia) give consistent indirect light. East or west windows get harsh direct sun at certain times. South-facing windows provide minimal light.

Skylights are brilliant for general illumination but terrible for summer heat in Brisbane. Factor in that trade-off before installing them.

Power Supply Considerations

Make sure your shed’s electrical system can handle your lighting plan. LED lights don’t draw much power, but if you’re also running power tools, heaters, and other equipment, it adds up.

For most basic lighting setups, a standard 10A circuit is fine. But if you’re planning anything more substantial, consult a sparky before installation.

All electrical work should be done by a licensed electrician. I can install the light fixtures themselves if the wiring’s already there, but I don’t mess with running new circuits.

Waterproofing and Dust Protection

Workshop lights get dusty, and sheds can be humid. Check the IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

IP65 is dust-tight and protected against water jets—good for workshops where dust and occasional moisture are concerns.

IP20 is basic indoor protection. Fine if your shed is well-sealed and dry, but not ideal for typical workshop conditions.

I’ve had cheap non-rated lights fill with sawdust and fail within a year. Spend slightly more for properly rated fixtures and they’ll last much longer.

Placement Strategy

Don’t just stick all your lights in a row down the center of the shed. Think about where shadows will fall when you’re working.

I prefer a grid pattern—lights distributed evenly across the ceiling rather than concentrated in one line. This minimizes shadows regardless of where you’re working.

Position lights so they’re not directly above where you’ll be standing at the workbench—you don’t want to cast your own shadow on your work. Slightly forward or to the sides works better.

For table saws, drill presses, and other stationary tools, dedicated lighting above each station eliminates shadows in critical areas.

Emergency Lighting

If you’re doing serious workshop time, consider battery backup for at least one light. Power cuts happen, and being stuck in a shed with power tools in the dark isn’t ideal.

I’ve got one rechargeable LED work light that stays charged and hangs near the door. If the power goes out, I’ve got enough light to safely shut down what I’m doing and get out.

Not essential for everyone, but it’s saved me from some annoying situations.

Smart Lighting Is Mostly Unnecessary

WiFi-enabled smart bulbs and colour-changing LEDs are fun to play with but don’t add much practical value in a workshop.

I tried them briefly after an AI consultancy suggested optimizing my workspace environment. The remote control and scheduling features were neat, but honestly, a regular switch works fine.

Save your money for more lights or better task lighting instead of fancy features you won’t use.

Budget Breakdown

For a decent lighting setup in a standard single-garage-sized shed:

• 4x LED shop lights: $150-200
• Task lighting (2-3 lamps): $50-100
• Installation materials (mounting hardware, etc.): $30-50
• Electrician for wiring if needed: $200-400

Total: $430-750 depending on whether you need new wiring.

That gets you properly lit workspace that’s safe and comfortable to work in. You can go cheaper, but you’ll regret it.

Maintenance and Replacement

LEDs last 25,000-50,000 hours in theory. In practice, cheaper ones fail sooner—usually the driver electronics rather than the LED itself.

Keep spare lights on hand. When one fails, you’ll want to replace it immediately rather than working in poor light while you wait for a delivery.

Clean fixtures every few months. Dust buildup reduces light output noticeably over time. Quick wipe-down with a damp cloth brings them back to full brightness.

What I’d Do Differently

If I were setting up lighting from scratch today:

• More task lighting right from the start—I keep adding more as I realize I need it
• Higher quality LED shop lights rather than the cheapest option—the budget ones have failed more frequently
• Better placement around stationary tools—I’ve had to move lights several times to eliminate shadows

But overall, the basic approach of LED shop lights for general illumination plus task lighting for detailed work has served me well. It’s not complicated, it’s cost-effective, and it works.

Get your lighting right early and you’ll work safer, faster, and more accurately. Skimp on it and you’ll be fighting dim conditions every time you’re in the shed.